Brand Bible: Bulgari

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When we think ‘Bulgari’, what comes to mind?

Golden snakes with jewels for eyes and diamonds for scales? A grey-hued timepiece slimmer than a coin? Roman or Greek mythology-inspired jewellery immortalized in gold and other precious materials? Or a delicate balance between glimmering, timeless elegance and pure mechanical mastery? Well, they’re all accurate as Bulgari sheds its skin, time and time again.

Bulgari’s tale of time is fascinating as it is distinct — How does a legendary jewellery brand cross over into the luxury watchmaking landscape? With each design tethered to ancient Greek mythology and traditional Roman craftsmanship, Bulgari supplied the world a dose of luxury that was rare, intriguing, and bedazzling.

However, that’s only one side of the Roman coin. The other is creating mind-bogglingly thin movements, pushing the limits of micro-engineering, and shattering world records, one after another.

Bulgari’s First Store in Rome, Italy

The story of Bulgari, one of luxury’s most daring icons, begins in 1884, when Greek silversmith Sotirios Voulgaris — later Italianized as Sotirio Bulgari — opened his first bespoke shop on Rome’s Via Sistina. Carrying generations of artisanal expertise from his native Epirus, Bulgari introduced a new spirit of craftsmanship to Italy, blending Hellenic roots with Roman flair. In 1905, the family inaugurated a new boutique on Via dei Condotti, strategically positioning themselves at the heart of Rome’s vibrant cultural scene.

Around this time, the brand adopted the now-famous spelling “BVLGARI,” inspired by the classical Latin alphabet, cementing a powerful identity that paid tribute to ancient Rome while forging a new creative future.

What Made Bulgari ‘Bulgari’?

As the decades unfolded, Bulgari broke away from the ornate styles dominating French high jewellery and forged a bold, unmistakable aesthetic. Embracing colored gemstones, daring geometric forms, and architectural symmetry, Bulgari’s designs reflected the energy of Rome itself — opulent, vibrant, and unapologetically powerful. In the postwar years, as the glamour of Cinecittà spilled onto the streets of Rome, Bulgari became the jeweller of choice for Hollywood royalty. Stars like Elizabeth Taylor and Audrey Hepburn famously browsed the Via Condotti boutique, their patronage catapulting Bulgari into the global spotlight and defining a new era of jet-set luxury.

Serpenti: Bulgari’s Motif of Eternal Reinvention

Among Bulgari’s most enduring motifs is the Serpenti, first introduced in the late 1940s. Drawing inspiration from ancient symbols of rebirth, wisdom, and eternity, the Serpenti collection coiled mythology into reality with the revolutionary Tubogas technique, creating supple, serpentine watches and jewellery. Initially appearing as secret watches with hidden dials, Serpenti soon evolved into a dazzling canvas for coloured gemstones, enamelling, and precious metals. Over the decades, it has transformed continually — from bold 1960s designs to contemporary minimalist interpretations — yet the spirit of the serpent, forever entwined with the house’s identity, remains timeless.

Bulgari’s First Tales of Time

In 1975, Bulgari’s first serious foray into watchmaking took shape with the Bulgari Roma, a digital wristwatch engraved boldly with “BVLGARI ROMA” around its bezel. Originally created as a limited-edition gift for clients, its success led to the commercial launch of the Bulgari Bulgari (Bvlgari Bvlgari) watch line in 1977. With its clean lines and architectural spirit, it challenged the conventions of traditional Swiss watchmaking, introducing a distinctly Roman attitude to the world of luxury horology.

The String of Records

Earning a distinct reputation for its hyper-miniaturized designs and precision mechanical craftsmanship, the Octo Finissimo Ultra collection (as of today) has ten world records to its name. Squeezing history’s most intricate complications between bare millimetres of metal, this relentless spirit of technical innovation has led them to even break their own previously held records!

Here’s a quick list of them:

• 2014: Octo Finissimo Tourbillon – Thinnest Tourbillon Movement/Watch
• 2016: Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater – Thinnest Minute Repeater Watch
• 2017: Octo Finissimo Automatic – Thinnest Automatic Watch
• 2018: Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic – Thinnest Automatic Tourbillon Watch
• 2019: Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT – Thinnest Mechanical Chronograph Movement
• 2020: Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic – Thinnest Tourbillon Chronograph
• 2021: Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar – Thinnest Perpetual Calendar
• 2022: Octo Finissimo Ultra – Thinnest Mechanical Watch
• 2024: Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC – Thinnest Mechanical Watch
• 2025: Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon – Thinnest Tourbillon Watch