Contrary to what the market of dupes may like you to believe, the ‘fake it till you make it’ mantra only works when you have nothing to offer, or lose, least of all self-respect. For anybody who has wisdom by their side, will know better that there really are no shortcuts to success. The only person you really have to be truthful to is your future self so it is always advisable to indulge in activities and associations which will let you sleep easy at night. Unless you work the graveyard shift, like in construction, or as a watchguard…in that case, please don’t take this advice literally!
Defining Authenticity
An authentic watch, simply put, is one that was conceived and executed by the brand. It was designed and made by them (or for them), the brand gave it their seal of approval, after which it followed the approved chain of distribution, before it showed up at your local watch store. Any step in this flow that isn’t aligned with the brand’s policies or is somehow out-of-sync could be a red flag. An authentic piece uses all parts as ordained by the brand which meet a certain level of quality, consistency and execution. Failing this, what we may have on our hands can be considered of dubious origins.
What is a Fake Watch?
Now we are onto something more, umm, certain? Surely we can define a fake watch? It is one made either with parts that are not authorised by the brand or maybe entirely copied from the original and made with (possibly, or often) inferior parts. How about if the part is reconstructed from all original parts but sourced from other watches of the brand, which may or may not be from the same model – can we call this ‘Franken-watch’ an original or a dupe? One thing is for certain – if you copy the design of an existing brand and replicate the watch in silhouette and style then that is definitely a fake watch. Or, is that an homage watch, or, as the industry calls many today, a ‘mod’? Methinks the rabbit hole only got deeper.
How to Spot a Fake Watch: Key Signs to Look For
Let’s then start with identifying what are the tell-tale signs of a fake watch. Assuming that we are now agreed on the definition of ‘authenticity’ (comes from the authorised retailer (AR), has verified and certified brand papers, is made by or for the brand with all approvals and sanctions) and “dupe” (not original parts, lacks brand approvals/papers, not AR certifiable, shady origins), let’s assess what are the physical aspects of a watch that will help us tell them apart. Because, let’s face it, with the kind of superclones that we can see in the market today, it can get quite tricky, and since not everybody is carrying their papers and stamp of authenticity every time they wear their watch, the only way to approach this is to look out for certain tell-tale (or subtle) signs.
- The “Feel”: This is tough because it relies on the assumption that one has handled the original enough times to know differences in weight, texture, form or even temperature. Not easy to suss unless you know said model better than your own palm, and even then, what if the wearer isn’t exactly offering it for an inspection?
- The Dial: Making a good dial is what separates average from your high-end, as also a fake from the OG. The first give away are the fonts used – on a fake watch they are either not the same or not consistent. Small slipups in the execution often taint such watches. A brand logo itself is a tough thing to execute as not only does it involve a specific (and often proprietary) font, but also the character spacing and sizing can be tricky to match, not to mention the finish, if any, applied to it. To this, add other features like alignment, print precision, quality and evenness of lume, date window positioning, all these can be quick visual markers to tell if something seems off. Collectively, when even two of these things are off, minute as they might seem, the watch can look extremely wonky.
- The Movement: Again, this is for the loupe-armed and trained. That said, with a sapphire caseback, the level of decoration on the movement can sometimes be a giveaway, but then again, it isn’t on obvious display. That said, the biggest thing a fake or inferior movement does is it causes the watch movement to appear unsteady. The slightest of jitters can mar the flow of the hands is a tell-tale sign of a dupe.
- The Case Finishing: Most fakes are caught here. It is also where many copies slacken, thinking that nobody will look beyond the dial. Other times, a factory is simply unable to reproduce the same level of meticulous craftsmanship and dexterity of execution required. They may not even have the appropriate machines for applying the finishings to the piece as they can be expensive to acquire. Superfakes, as the notorious term goes, can come close, and yes, one may need to call upon an expert to spot the differences, but once they point them out, no matter how small, they just can’t be unseen again.
- Bracelet & Clasp: The reassuring click of an OG bracelet, that crisp snap, sometimes, just that is enough to tell things apart. It differs from one brand to the next, but you can be sure that all top brands definitely pay a lot of attention to how their watch ‘sounds’ when being worn. Apart from that, the construction of the links is also a form of high artistry, and can become difficult to replicate. With leather straps, the quality of leather on a new one and the patina on a worn one, can both be easy markers to gauge authenticity.
- Serial Number & Papers: Documentation can be faked but serial numbers can usually be checked online. Newer cards and papers are marked uniquely to ensure that copies become nearly impossible. This one is more, ‘check before you buy’ advice rather than ‘tips on spotting fakes at the next sundowner’.
- Human Tells: The second hand market is replete with pieces that didn’t click with their original owners (for a host of reasons) but often, these waters can be infested with many fake pieces that were slyly introduced into the mix, to catch the unsuspecting novice buyer off-guard. From an unnecessarily long-winded story to how a watch reached here to one mired in mysteries, both can be classic tells that it all doesn’t add up. Box and papers, all duly filled and stamped, service history if relevant, and the shortest explanation for the path between AR and current owner is all the chit-chat you should be entertaining. Anything longer or more convoluted involving second-hand forums, unauthorised dealers, storied tales about factory-sourced pieces, should set the red flags a-waving.
In short, if it quacks but doesn’t walk, it’s possibly a decoy.
The Geek Quotient
Just like movies with their red herrings, some watch brands hide a proof of authenticity in their design, it can be as small as a tiny engraving done in a certain part to a batch number being inserted inconspicuously into the font design itself, from the way the crown is marked to denote the watch material to other small yet significant aspects and authenticity breadcrumbs which, only if you are a true watch lover, would you know of and where to look for them.
The Moral Conundrum
So, if it can be so tough to spot a fake, even from up-close let alone from a distance, where is the argument for buying an original? Who cares if the time-telling is a bit off, or the watch feels less weighty? Where lies the sense in spending thousands of dollars for an article of pure vanity.
Well, if you have read this far, then clearly you don’t think of watches as merely a functional tool. It is history, cloaked in artistry, worn like a statement of taste and pride at the end of your arm. Nobody might know if you strap on a fake on, but you will, and that is all that matters.
The Financial Fiasco
Now I acknowledge that Superfakes – and I deign to use the term again, as if almost lauding them – can pose a serious problem as they might satisfy a lot of the quick-check parameters one may have lined up, checks that unless you are at the official boutique or repair centre, your corner-shop watch repair guy may not be able to conduct satisfactorily. The real trouble brews in case you accidentally end up with a piece and then, one fine day you decide to sell it and the AR, upon inspection, breaks the bad news to you. Suddenly, just like that, you haven’t just lost a potential sale, you are also down the dosh you spent on acquiring that piece in the first place, not to mention the gap that you now have created, with one grail less in your kitty.
Caveat Emptor Conclusion
In the end, if you are in it for the fun of it, a fake is nothing but a party pooper. Ignorance maybe bliss for others but for you, the wearer, that knowledge can become the pea under your mattress. Don’t deviate from the AR route, have faith, they come through. Heed the advise of others but get second (and third) expert opinions on the planned purchase. No matter how untrained your eye, remember it isn’t perfection that we are trying to gauge, it’s about noticing contradictions – if the dial and case and bezel and bracelet don’t seem to be telling the same story from the same edition, walk away. Every seller knows the real market value of a timepiece; there are no super awesome deals to be had, no matter how much doomscrolling may make you want to believe that.
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