Once reserved for vintage watches, brown is now having a moment on the wrist. It is being embraced by maisons across the world, making a compelling case as a new classic.
For years, black has been the answer to everything — the little black dress, the statement black handbag and the tailored black suit. Dependable and chic, it’s been an evergreen essential, occupying a permanent place in most wardrobes.
But last year, when Pantone, the official authority on everything colour, announced Mocha Mousse as the colour of the year, it brought another shade into the spotlight. Suddenly, brown burst onto the scene. Footwear, jewellery, makeup, interiors – shades of brown were being spotted everywhere from the runways to the streets. This retro hue has also made its way onto the wrist.
Brown dial watches once considered as heritage finds are emerging as the new neutral picks. They are warmer than black, richer than white, more interesting than silver and pair effortlessly with gold, steel and even titanium bracelets.
Chopard Alpine Eagle
Crafted in 18 kt rose gold, the Chopard Alpine Eagle is a luxurious delight on the wrist. It features a ‘Shades of Wood’ brown gradient dial reminiscent of the concentric rings of a wooden cross section, as an homage to the traditional chalet woodwork that shapes the Alpine landscape. Its texture, inspired by the iris of an eagle, catches the light beautifully while the rose gold case adds radiance and richness. Slim and sophisticated, this brown dial beauty works equally well in a boardroom as it does for a weekend in the mountains.
Cartier Santos
Having its roots in jewellery making, Cartier’s savoir faire and relationship with colour has always been nuanced. The Santos brings brown to one of the first ever wristwatches, where the colour softens the geometry of the square case and sharply defined lines. Originally created in 1904 for aviator Alberto Santos Dumont, the Santos has evolved over centuries without losing its essence. Here, the graduated brown sunray dial lends the icon a warm elegant edge. Pair it with the gold bracelet for an evening ready look or the brown alligator leather strap for everyday wear.
Panerai Luminor
The Luminor pays tribute to the utilitarian design language established by Panerai since the 1960s. Its oversized cases and luminous markers have traditionally favoured neutrals like blacks and blues. The brown dial, however offers a more relaxed interpretation of the Italian maison’s military DNA. Featuring Panerai’s signature cushion case and crown protecting bridge, it pairs a deep wooden brown dial with a matching brown leather strap, giving its rugged silhouette an old world charm.
Longines Flagship Heritage
Known for its restrained design and elegant proportions, Longines Flagship Heritage Moonphase is the perfect after hours watch. Featuring gilded hands, index markers and a warm brown sunray dial in a sleek stainless steel case, this Flagship model is understated yet refined. Finished with a brown alligator strap and the collection’s signature gold medallion on the caseback, it brings heritage and nostalgia to a classic dress watch.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo
The Octo Finissimo, defined by its architectural geometry and slim profile is the perfect blend of technical sophistication and modern aesthetic sensibility. This brown lacquered dial variation paired with rose gold case and a brown leather strap, gives the sports watch a vintage appeal. The warm brown against the sharp lines, creates a visual balance, making the timepiece transition from day to night effortlessly.
Omega Seamaster
Originally designed for divers in 1957, the Seamaster by Omega is a pop culture icon. This brown dial variant gives the aquatic timepiece a bit of an earthy character. The case and the bezel, crafted in Omega’s proprietary Bronze Gold alloy, complement the dark chocolate dial with tinted Super-LumiNova hour markers perfectly, giving it the feel of a treasured family heirloom passed down through generations.
Franck Muller Vanguard Slim Sfumato
Franck Muller Vanguard’s distinctive tonneau shaped case and exaggerated numerals have made it one of the brand’s most recognisable silhouettes. The Vanguard Slim Sfumato named after the Renaissance painting technique pioneered by Leonardo da Vinci to blend colours seamlessly, has a soft gradient tobacco brown dial framed in a rose gold case. The graduated finish gives the dial depth and movement, while keeping the avant garde design language of the timepiece intact.
Breitling Lady Premier
Breitling, traditionally associated with aviation and technical chronographs, extends the colour palette to women’s timepieces through the Lady Premier collection. Paired with a pink gold case, minimalist numerals and a gradient brown strap, the copper brown dial watch is a tonal masterpiece. Polished, classy and timeless, it is versatile enough to be worn for a day out with the girls as it is for a serious work meeting.
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