If you think that Bvlgari’s reign of ultra-thin watches ended with the Octo Finissimo, think again. The new Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic has finally been launched in Geneva Watch Days 2020 and it is bound to make some waves in the international watch markets. The brand claims it to be the flattest wristwatch tourbillon chronograph ever made. Quite a bold claim if you ask me. This rather niche market segment of ultra-thin watches has become more and more engaging in recent times with lots of watch brands turning their heads towards making really sleek and thin designs.
The World’s Flattest Tourbillon Chronograph – The Bvlgari Octo
The ultra-thin watch segment began as an experiment. It was a niche, of course, but then so was the tourbillon or the perpetual calendar. In short, almost every major development in the Haute Horlogerie world was once merely a niche.
2020 has already witnessed numerous releases from some of the best watch brands out there and the all-new Octo Finissimo is not far behind. As a matter of fact, it is right there at the front. The Octo line of ultra-thin timepieces was released about six years ago, and in six years, the brand has consistently launched a horological marvel after another. We have seen the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT, the Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, and even the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic. Oh, and let’s not forget the good old Octo Finissimo Automatic just yet.
This week at the Geneva Watch Days 2020, Bvlgari has launched what would be another world record by the watchmaker, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Skeleton Automatic, the world’s flattest one so far. Standing at 42 mm diameter and 7.40 mm thickness, the watch houses the BVL 388, an openworked (skeleton) monopusher chronograph tourbillon mechanism.
The Movement
The BVL 388 is a very interesting mechanism. To start things off, if you look closely, you will notice that this is not a ‘flying’ tourbillon. Both the upper bridge and the mainspring barrel are easily visible. The movement runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour with 52 jewels and offers a power reserve of about 52 hours.
(Dial Side)
The tourbillon cage is not driven through a lower pinion but at its periphery. The absence of a regulator also aids in keeping the thickness to a bare minimum. The movement also accommodates a column wheel. But this is a monopusher mechanism, that is, the pusher at 2 o’clock starts, stops and resets the chronograph. So, why the column wheel? Turns out that the column wheel is for setting the mode of the crown. You see, the crown acts as a hand-winder for the movement. But push the 2 o’clock pusher and it will turn it into a time hand setter.
(Movement Side)
The Movement side of the BVL 388 gives you an entirely new view. If you look closely, you will be able to see the automatic-winding and the chronograph at work. The BVL 388 is truly a marvellous creation from Bvlgari. Although many of the parts are similar to the BVL 318, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT movement, the BVL 388 is still a new mechanism. The BVL 388 is essentially an oscillating pinion lateral clutch system. The lateral clutch system is a better choice in this scenario as it offers a flatter construction as compared to the vertical clutch.
Honest Opinion
One thing that separates the Octo Finissimo line of timepieces is that it has no rivals. Now, of course, it is often compared to the Royal Oak Jumbo because of its design and ultra-thin profile. That, however, does not put it in the same category as the Oak.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo has created an all-new genre for itself. All the watches in this series are interconnected via a dedicated aesthetic language and a common idea of ultra-thin designs. The future of this timepiece is one that is hard to predict. You never really know how the audience would truly react to a watch like this. To the seasoned horological enthusiast, this is paradise, but the market is composed of much more complex subjects. That being said, I truly believe that the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic has a quality that not many possess.
In a matter of only six years, the collection has produced six record-breaking timepieces. That has to account for something. And this watch, in particular, is bound to be remembered long after the records made are forgotten.
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