SOLD! 5 Most Expensive Watches From Sotheby x Heist Out’s ‘Rough Diamonds’ Auction

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In case you missed this, here’s a recap of the most exciting lots from Rough Diamonds that went under the hammer and for how much.

Year after year, as our date windows jump to April, every gaze in the watch world is set on Watches & Wonders, Geneva – the historic home of haute horlogerie. Palexpo Centre is currently hosting 54 of the world’s greatest watchmakers as they showcase their latest strides, technical innovations, and newest timepieces in communion with journalists, retailers, and VIP clients. However, amidst the roars of Watches & Wonders 2024, Sotheby’s and self-proclaimed ‘outcast’ watch magazine, Heist-Out hosted a groundbreaking auction, held deep underground in a hidden wine cave – La Corne à Vin. Putting 24 avant-garde vintage timepieces or forgotten bejewelled relics of the past, the ‘Rough Diamonds’ auction saw all lots sold last evening. The philosophy behind this unique auction collection was that collectors are jaded by modern, sports steel watches. On the other hand, vintage watch collecting has enjoyed a resurgence as collectors are eagerly seeking unique, heritage-wrapped pieces as a new means to express themselves.

The showstopper at Rough Diamonds was an obscure 1962 Patek Philippe Ref. 3290 golden bracelet watch – the hammer price was CHF 393,700 (INR 3,60,30,146), followed by an Audemars Piguet emerald-embellished ‘toy-car’ watch at CHF 107,950 (INR 98,79,233). In case you missed these wonders, here’s a recap of the most exciting lots from Sotheby x Heist Out’s Rough Diamonds auction that went under the hammer and for how much.

Patek Philippe Reference 3290 by Gilbert Albert

What was initially estimated to be hammered between a humble CHF 30,000 – 50,000 (INR 27,00,000 – 45,00,000), ended up as the crown jewel of Rough Diamonds, 2024, selling at CHF 393,700 (INR 3,60,30,146) – A custom-crafted 1962 bracelet watch, paired with a ring and necklace, all cast in 18-carat yellow gold. These pieces are adorned by blue, turquoise and green cloisonné enamel and sprinkled with pearls. Inside its case, rests a calibre 13.5 which is manually wound. At Geneva’s prestigious “Montres at Bijoux” contest in 1960, this Patek Philippe novelty emerged victorious in two categories – “Jewelry Watch” and “Ladies Watch Without Stones”. This watch comes complete with a necklace and ring, completing a set fit for a modern-day adventurer.

Audemars Piguet Cobra ‘Royal Khanhar’ by Gerald Genta

Audermars Piguet’s spirit of horological experimentalism during the 80s and 90s was what introduced the world to wonders like the Royal Oak. However, just a year before this steel sportster, Audemars Piguet sought a different direction altogether. Dreamed up by Gérald Genta himself, it was dubbed the ‘Cobra’ for its scaly, slithery, mesh-like bracelet which took after the architecture and elegance of snakeskin. Cased out of 18-carat White Gold and measuring 34.2 millimetres in diameter, it featured a snap-on caseback with the ‘Royal Khanjar’ crest – the emblem of the Omani royal family. The dial, blue and simplistic, featured two sub-dials, powered by its Day-Date calibre. This piece was estimated to sell between CHF 50,000 to 100,000 (INR 45,00,000 – 90,00,000).

Audemars Piguet Toy-Car Watch by Jacqueline Dimier

Pulling up to the bumper of this custom-crafted Audemars Piguet – a whimsical wonder of gem-setting horlogerie that doubles as a fully operational toy car. Sotheby’s states that it was commissioned for the Sultan of Brunei’s heir. Veteran designers, Jacqueline Dimier and Emanuel Gueit were the dynamic duo behind this marvel, sketching multiple watch designs daily, with the creative freedom to run wild. Interestingly, before the age of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet had the excellently loony idea of creating luxury watches for children. At the time, they produced about 15,000 watches a year. Shaped like a roadster and bedazzled in green emeralds and diamonds, it’s cased out of 18-carat white gold. Inside is a mother-of-pearl dial, completed with four emerald markers and a diamond-studded bezel. This novelty was estimated to sell between CHF 40,000 and 80,000 (INR 35,00,000 – 70,00,000).

Patek Philippe Ref 4239/1J

At first glance itself, you’ll question why one of the watch world’s most traditional brands crafted something so indulgent – exemplifying the glamour and Art Deco sensibilities of the 70s and 80s. Rumoured to be a one-of-ten, this experimental capsule by Patek Philippe is highly unlike Patek Philippe – that’s what makes it collectable. With a Vermeer dial resting in an 18-carat yellow gold case with a bracelet that resembles the oozy goodness of melted chocolate, it houses a manual winding calibre 250. This Patek Philippe was estimated to hear the hammer fall somewhere between CHF 15,000 and 30,000 (INR 13,00,000 – 27,00,000).

Cartier Tank Asymétrique ‘Milan Edition’, Reference 4285

If you can’t invent a time machine – wear one on your wrist. Meet the Paralélogramme from 1936, now known as the Asymétrique. Twist the classic Tank to about 30 degrees, dip it in platinum, and sprinkle some burgundy accents – that’s the Cartier Tank Asymétrique for you. Limited to just 16 pieces, exclusively for Milan boutiques. Also, in case you’re wondering why 16? It’s because that’s the address of Cartier’s Milan boutique – 16 Via Montenapoleone. This timepiece measures 41 x 26 millimetres and uses a manual-wound calibre 1917 MC. This was estimated to seel between CHF 40,000 and 80,000 (INR 35,00,000 – 70,00,000).