The sign of charm and compassion together, pocket watches are something that gives a touch of nostalgia and a sense of taste when kept in hands, surely a piece loved by all watch lovers around the globe. Perhaps the epitome of men’s fashion, pocket watches are enjoying a resurgence even among the young. They dominated the watch market until the First World War, when wristwatches favored practicality. Soldiers found wristwatches more useful than pocket watches, as the latter’s chain could be cumbersome in combat, freeing the hands and increasing productivity. Today, pocket watches are appreciated for their timeless appeal, marking an extravagant return to vintage style.
The Story Behind Pocket Watches:
Pocket watches were first invented by Peter Heinlein in 1500 in Nuremberg, Germany. These early timepieces consisted of heavy brass drum-shaped tubes, ranging about the size of table clocks and modern wristwatches. They were usually chained around the neck because of their weight. Originally, only the one-hour hand was displayed as technology was not yet capable of accurately measuring minutes. The minute hand was introduced later in the end of the seventeenth century.
Evolution of Pocket Watches with Trends and Time
In 1675, Charles II of England popularized the waistcoats which led to a boom in pocket watch manufacturing. Adapting to new fashion trends, pocket watches became more flat and curved to resemble modern clothing. As a result men began wearing watches around their wrists instead of around their necks. But women continued to use pocket watches as pendants as long as into the 20th century.
By the second half of the 18th century, pocket watches which were once luxury items and resemble elitism began to be manufactured on a larger scale. Inexpensive paintings designed for sailors, often decorated with sailing motifs, began to appear. A breakthrough came in the late 18th century with the introduction of ‘anchor escapement’. This new movement system greatly improved upon the ‘verge escapement’ or crown gear previously used in mechanical watches. The verge escape was known for its inaccuracies but the anchor escape enabled more accurate timing. It also contributed to lighter, cheaper and more durable gear marking a major advance in watchmaking technology and making pocket watches more reliable and widely available.
In 1857, the American Watch Company of Waltham, Massachusetts revolutionized watchmaking with the introduction of the Waltham Model 57 which brought the introduction of interchangeable parts within a pocket watch. This innovation reduced the manufacturing and maintenance costs by a slide making pocket watches more affordable and accessible to the general masses. The other half of the 19th century saw the rise of industrial capitalism which brought progress with it like the expansion of railroads leading to the demand for precise timekeeping and the popularity of pocket watches for men.
In the 1800s, the Montre mystérieuse or ‘Mystery watch’ (in picture above) became famous for its absolutely new design. The watch was designed by Hugues Rime and marketed by the French firm Armand Schwob et Frères, the watch featured a mysterious mechanism that transmitted to the hands via an invisible gear such as a transparent crystal wheel. The sophisticated mechanical design and technological advancement took a lot of watch lovers’ interest, expressing the excitement of that era with intricate detailing and mechanism. Due to its high historical value it is presented in various museums around the world like the British Museum, the German Clock Museum, the International Museum of Horology, the Musée d’Horlogerie of Le Locle (Switzerland), the Musée d’art et d’histoire de Neuchâtel, the U.S. National Watch and Clock Museum, and the Vienna Clock and Watch Museum.
The Pocket Watches Comeback!
After a sharp decline due to the rise of wrist watches and lately mobile phones which are used to look at the time, in today’s date a steady comeback of the pocket watches for men and women is seen driven by nostalgia and love for vintage style and this resurgence is reflected in auctions, like the pocket watch that Mahatma Gandhi once had was sold for £12,000 in November 2020. Similarly, Edgar Allan Poe’s French pocket watch with an 18k gold case and guilloché dial was auctioned at Christie’s in 2019. Originally estimated at $80,000 to $120,000, it was sold at $250,000.
Founded in 2001, Richard Mille being the co-founder of the Swiss watch brand came with a modern twist to pocket watches. He said, “The gesture of taking the watch from the pocket and looking at the time is very elegant for a man, but if I was going to create a pocket watch, I wanted it to be very modern. I didn’t want to do old-fashioned.” The RM 020 pocket watch with manually wound tourbillon exemplifies this modern style with its rectangular shape and contemporary design. The rhomboid shaped chain forms a striking counterpart to Constantin Brancusi’s Column Of Infinity, combining historic beauty with innovation and giving a completely new definition to pocket watches for men.
The New Gen Connection!
The comeback of pocket watches especially in the new generation can be credited to the steampunk trend that celebrates Victorian era aesthetics when these timepieces were at their peak. This interest in Victorian style rekindled interest back to the world of pocket watches for men and women giving it an alignment with the broad and artistic elements of steampunk fashion. From Sherlock Holmes to Poirot and even the Peaky Blinders, the pocket watch is used as a status symbol as well as a fashion statement. In some cultures, retirees are given pocket watches to mark their years of service. Not only a lasting dedication, these gold plated timepieces symbolize the new retirement season as well.
There is a misconception that only expensive or rare watches attract collectors. What’s really interesting is the history and context of the watch. Unlike today’s wristwatches, smartphones or smart watches, which generally lack historical depth, vintage classical pocket watches are treasured in terms of a luxurious heirloom that has been passed down for generations and admiring their craftsmanship and the careful attention paid to their creation. Despite the passage of time and various challenges, many of these pocket watches are still in operation preserving their heritage and continuing to share their unique stories with people who appreciate the historical significance.
Tips For Pocket Watches:
If you are a watch lover and are into collecting pocket watches but are confused and looking for tips around the magnificent timepiece collection then Kapoor Watch Co. has got you covered.
- The Chain:
One of the key features of a pocket watch is its chain, which serves both practical and aesthetic purposes. The chain keeps the watch attached to the dress and thus prevents loss or damage and improves the overall look. Pay attention to detail in choosing a chain considering factors like color, material and style, as they should complement the design of the watch. Among the various pocket watch chains, the Albert T-Bar chain is the most classic and popular. Featuring a unique T-bar that fits in the slot, it’s named after Queen Victoria’s husband, King Albert, who popularized it as a men’s fashion staple.
- The Fashion Taste:
A lot of watch lovers like their pocket watches to be worn as pendants. For this case one can remove the supplied chain along with the watch and change it with a steel necklace chain or a leather chord.
- The Dial:
One of the standout features of a pocket watch is its dial. The art of this particular timepiece and the heart lies right there. It comes with a wide range of options available like in Roman or Arabic numerals in double or tripled case or uncovered along with a date function or a moonphase and the list is endless.
- The Mechanism Movement:
The one choice that has the horology world divided is the choice between mechanical or quartz movement pocket watches. Mechanical movement watches are more vintage and have a unique charm of their own assuring a story of its history along with the beauty while quartz movement watches are more precise and also come with the fact of being less influenced by environmental factors like humidity and temperature.
The Magnificence Of Pocket Watches
The appeal of pocket watches extends beyond mere function as a timekeeper as they represent a bridge between past and present, mixing traditional and modern style. These timepieces carry an aura of elegance, mystery and craftsmanship that modern instruments often lack. The resurgence of pocket watches for men and women in today’s world is a testament to our enduring appreciation as storied objects that gives us the sense of the various cultural changes one sees with the passing of time and evolution of trends. Either being passed on as family heirlooms that carry a character of their own or getting a hold by collectors, pocket watches continue to capture the essence and act as a symbol of personal history and timeless style. Their comeback in a time of completely digital technology driven society shows the longing for something that is complex and meaningful and expresses desire. Pocket watches remind us that, while time may pass, the memories and legacies we associate with them are forever.
Kapoor Watch Co.
For watch lovers and connoisseurs who are looking out for a destination to get their favorite luxury watches that guarantee authenticity, Kapoor Watch Co. is just the place you are looking for. We are a renowned luxury watch retail, known for our exceptional service and experience, making sure that all our clients get their preferred timepiece. The Kapoor Watch Co. Stores presents an array of luxury watch collections consisting of brands like Cartier, Bvlgari, Franck Muller, Rado, and many more. Visit our website or our stores and set out on an experience that will leave a mark on you forever to cherish.
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