The return of cocktail watches

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The perfect party plus-one, for every kind of soiree

After years of pared-back minimalism and quiet luxury, fashion and design are embracing a glittering rebellion with the return of Art Deco—defined by bold geometry, sleek lines, luxurious materials and unapologetic glamour. This renewed obsession with the era has propelled cocktail watches from vintage curiosities to contemporary must-haves. Having emerged during the Roaring Twenties, cocktail watches were the ultimate accessory, for when women needed something subtle yet stunning to pair with their flapper dresses for all those speakeasy soirees. As our world optimised for efficiency, our watches became smart, accessories became functional and these bejewelled beauties became relics of the past. Now, they are back in the spotlight with experts at Christie’s and Sotheby’s reporting a boom in vintage minis that blend heritage craftsmanship with fresh twists. Here, we curate a collection of timepieces blurring the line between horology and haute joaillerie.

Cartier Baignoire

Originally conceived in 1912, Cartier’s Baignoire is the original It Girl watch. With a bathtub-inspired elongated ellipse, its perfectly proportioned case against the sleek, seamless belt reads as pure sculpture. The genius of the Baignoire lies in the fact that it manages to be timeless yet absolutely current. Featuring a quartz movement, sapphire crystal and steel sword-shaped hands, its restrained glamour is a nod to its Parisian roots. While the silhouette has been around for more than a century, contemporary iterations of the timepiece are swathed in diamonds or rendered in 18K gold, doubling up as horological heirlooms.

Cartier Clash Unlimited

Spiky, geometric and unabashedly bold, Cartier’s Clash Unlimited pushes boundaries with its audacious design language. It takes the maison’s architectural DNA and gives it a punk-inspired edge. Set in 18K rose gold with brilliant cut diamonds, it’s a structural marvel of beads, picot studs and clou carrés that dance across the case while spinels, tsavorites, coral and chrysoprase add a riot of color. Its stud-like motifs, architectural tension and tactile quality make it a modern armour for the women who like to add a dash of drama to their wrist.

Chopard L’heure Du Diamant Cushion

A celebration of the 1970’s era of disco and decadence, the L’Heure Du Diamant Cushion is the sort of piece that makes no apologies for its extravagance. The cushion-shaped case adds an old-world charm, while the crown setting allows the light to hit the stones from all angles, creating a halo of brilliance. A fitting tribute to the maison’s legacy of exquisite high jewellery, this timepiece is pure radiance on the wrist.

Bvlgari Serpenti Seduttori

The Serpenti is arguably the most iconic cocktail watch silhouette of the modern era. Inspired by the serpent motif, which the Roman jeweller has been perfecting since the 1940s, the Seduttori wraps around the wrist with an ergonomic elegance. Sinuous, indulgent and light, the timepiece is set in 18K gold and features a hexagonal scale bracelet with an opaline dial. Ablaze with diamonds scattered across the belt and the case; it’s not just a watch, it’s a conversation, a mood and a whole vibe.

Bvlgari Diva’s Dream

Bvlgari’s Diva’s Dream takes a different approach, translating the ancient mosaic floors of the Baths of Caracalla into its signature fan-shaped case that seems to bloom on the wrist. Soft curves meet jewel like detailing, while its pastel palette reads as an ode to the romance and glamour of Italy. Rendered in mother-of-pearl, accented with pink opal inserts, citrine stones and pavé diamonds, it is ‘La Dolce Vita’ distilled into a timepiece. Feminine but rooted in history, it feels less like a watch and more like an artefact of Roman grandeur.

Vacheron Constantin Heure Romantique

Vacheron Constantin’s Heure Romantique is a celebration of the Art Nouveau era of abundant floral and nature-focused flourishes. Inspired by an archival piece, it is equal parts romantic and whimsical. The mother-of-pearl dial, encrusted with round cut diamonds, painted Roman numerals and the black satin strap make it a striking and sophisticated choice. From a maison known for its grand complications and its watchmaking gravitas, the Heure Romantique feels like a love letter written in 18K gold and precious stones.

Van Cleef & Arpels Sweet Alhambra

The Sweet Alhambra is dainty, discreet and fits into everyday life seamlessly. It takes Van Cleef and Arpels’ iconic four-leaf clover motif that has defined the maison’s aesthetic DNA and transforms the timepiece into a talisman. The silhouette is instantly recognisable yet it’s never loud; a fine example of restrained opulence. The guilloche details on the dial and splashes of Carnelian on the bracelet imbue the watch with a radiant vibrancy. Layered with bracelets or worn as a single statement piece, it is a delicate expression of luck, elegance and effortless Parisian charm.