Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection: The Nautilus’ Square Sibling

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The last time Patek Philippe unveiled a new collection, the world was still getting accustomed to Wi-Fi and Bluetooth tech, and the iPod hadn’t even launched yet. Patek Philippe’s impact on the world of haute horlogerie is immeasurable. With a monumental directory of perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, self-winding watches and multi-million-dollar hyper-mechanical marvels, Patek Philippe has earned a reputation in effectively every category of high watchmaking. However, seeing an entirely new Patek Philippe collection? That’s a rarity.

The Hype

Cranking up our time machines — In 1976, we witnessed the launch of the luxe-sporty Patek Philippe Nautilus, followed by 1993’s Gondolo, 1997’s Aquanaut, and at the turn of the millennium, the feminine Twenty~4. Finally, nearly ten days ago, an advertisement in Fortune magazine set the watch world in a complete frenzy, revealing Patek Philippe’s first collection in 25 years, the Cubitus. While some argued that it’s fake, others couldn’t stop obsessing about the fact that it resides in a category native to the Nautilus and appears to be a spiritual replacement for the stainless steel 5711A.

Connection To the Nautilus

Nearly half a century since the introduction of the Nautilus, Patek Philippe returns to its ‘sporty chic’ segment with a more angular approach, blending sharpness and ergonomics. Patek states that the Cubitus is ‘quadrangular’ in form, mixing the square and octagon — simply a geometric reinterpretation of Gérald Genta’s 1976 Nautilus silhouette. Place them side by side, and the similarities are glaringly obvious. Much like the Nautilus’s signature hinges, the Cubitus features attachments on both sides of its two-part case. The shape of the lugs at twelve and six o’clock, the dial’s embossed horizontal relief, and the bracelet profile all take after the Nautilus, simply replacing its curves with sharper cuts.

Squaring off – Patek Philippe Cubitus Collection

The Patek Philippe Cubitus collection features three references: two time/date models and a showstopping third, which features an ‘Instantaneous Grand Date’ and moonphase. In proportions, all three variants are nearly identical. Only the Ref. 5822P boasts a slightly thicker case to accommodate its heftier Big Date and moonphase movement. Due to its square form, it appears ‘fuller’ than the Nautilus, covering more surface area despite having an equivalent diameter. All three models slate in at 45 millimetres (10 to 4 o’clock), with the Big Date reference measuring 0.4 millimetres wider than the two time/date references’ 44.5-millimetre dimensions (3 to 9 o’clock).

Cubitus Reference 5821/1A-001 – Stainless Steel Case, Green Dial, Time/Date

The Stainless-Steel case will perhaps be the most accessible (hence, the most important) of the three models. Also, carrying 5711A’s spirit forward into squared dimensions, plenty of eyes will be fixed on this reference. The ‘A’ refers to “acier” or steel in English — the 30-metre water-resistant case features the Naitulus’ vertical satin-brushed finish and a screw-down crown. Another borrowed detail was the Nautilus’ steel bracelet design, which now straps the Cubitus with an updated size-adjustable locking system and fold-over PP clasp. The main attraction here is the olive-green dial, flexing an embossed horizontal relief and date window at three o’clock. This was contrasted by elegant, baton-style hands and indexes cast in 18-carat white gold with a rhodium-played seconds hand. Inside, the newly developed Calibre 26-3330SC, comprising 212 components and a 21-carat gold rotor, is self-wound and offers a 45-hour power reserve. What makes this movement stand out is its stop-second feature (seconds hand stops when the crown is pulled).

Cubitus Reference 5821/1AR-001 – Rose Gold and Steel Case, Blue Dial, Time/Date

Next up, the 5831/1AR — which is inheritably the same model but cosmetically tweaked, creating a more refined Time/Date Cubitus. What separates the two models is that the bezel, crown and central bracelet links boast splashes of gold and, of course, the Nautilus-blue dial. The dial’s horizontal relief embossing is carried here, contrasted by the case’s vertical sunburst finish. The hands, indexes, and date window layout are identical to the steel case model. Mechanically as well, these models are inseperable, featuring the same self-winding, Calibre 26-330 SC with the ‘stop seconds’ function. We also see the Cyrimax balance, Spiromax hairspring, and 21-carat gold winding rotor.

Cubitus Reference 5822P – Platinum Case, Blue Dial, Instantaneous Grand Date, Day & Moonphase

The Cubitus collection perfectly encapsulates Patek Philippe’s spirit of duality: Crafting simply elegant time/date Nautiluses as well as mechanically poetic yet hyper-complicated Grandmaster Chimes, expressing simplicity and technical ingenuity.

After two classic Time/Date references, Patek Philippe ups the ante with the Cubitus Instantaneous Grand Date, Day, and Moonphase, which houses the Caliber 240 PS CI J LU (based on the iconic Calibre 240). This pioneering calibre, comprising 353 components and a 48-hour power reserve, has six patents to its name for its tangential brake, dual-functioning spring, dual-functioning spring mechanism, flexible plate, flexible connector, and positioning system. Mainly for its prowess in energy management for the grand date, it also closely resembles the Nautilus Ref 5712’s calibre, which features an off-centred moonphase/day display. One of the six patents can be seen in action via the jumping seconds, which ‘jumps’ in exactly 18 milliseconds.

With a dial draped in Nautilus blue, the horizontal relief embossing is carried here, too. The dial is certainly crowded — with a Big Date at twelve o’clock, Day and moonphase indicator at seven and small seconds at four. Incase you’re wondering, the 5822P’s ‘P’ stands for platinum, measuring 45 millimetres in diameter and 9.6 millimetres thick. Upon close inspection, you’ll find a 0.02-carat Baguette-cut diamond on the bezel at six o’clock — a first for Patek. Being so mechanically superseding its sister references, the 5288P also receives a unique strap treatment: a blue, intricately knitted composite strap with contrasting cream stitching and a platinum fold-over clasp.