Some timepieces mark time — others mark history.
Watchmaking’s ‘Big Bang’ was the birth of the mainspring in the Sixteenth century, which catapulted the miniaturization of German pocket watches, the conception of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s tourbillon and centuries of Swiss mechanical ingeniousness. Through these centuries of innovation, watchmaking’s eternal mission evidently wasn’t telling time but harnessing the brilliance of micro-engineering and squishing mighty complexities into bare millimetres inside a case. And in this relentless pursuit of horological greatness, every once in a while, we witness icons of form, function, or bejewelled extravagance — creating records for the world to behold.
Here’s a list of seven luxury watches and the world records tied to their name.
Thinnest Mechanical Watch – Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC
At Watches & Wonders 24, Bvlgari’s Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC reclaimed the throne from Richard Mille, whose one-hit-wonder, the UM-01 Ferrari, snatched their ‘ultra-thin’ bragging rights two years prior, furthering their legacy of crafting timepieces slimmer than a Samurai sword. Slating 1.70 millimetres thin (going 0.05 millimetres slimmer than RM), the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC was developed with movement specialist Concepto, who filed no fewer than eight patents and took a week to assemble parts of the hand-wound BVL Calibre 180. Featuring a regulator-like display with separate indicators and avoiding superimposed hands, it also uses two horizontal knobs on each side of the case — one for winding and the other for time setting, swapping out the traditional crown. The shape of the bezel, dial, and barrel were all reworked, presenting a zero-to-100 structural revolution. As the name suggests, the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC is chronometer-certified, making it the world’s thinnest chronometer and mechanical watch overall. Limited to 20 pieces.
Most Complicated Watch – Vacheron Constantin Les Cabinotiers – Berkley Grand Complication
Right since 2015’s Ref. 57260, Vacheron Constantin has represented the last word in constructing mega-complication movements featuring astronomy calendars, chronometers, minute repeaters, and a total of 57 complications. However, at Watches & Wonders 24, VC blew past their own record with the Les Cabinotiers Berkley Grand Complication, which boasts a world-first Chinese Perpetual Calendar, Gregorian Perpetual Calendar and nine departments of complications. This herculean horological marvel demanded 11 years of research and another year exclusively for assembly, upping the record tally to 63 complications. Measuring 98 millimetres in diameter, 50.5 millimetres thick, cased in 18-carat white gold, and bearing 2,877 components, the Berkley Grand Complication is simply a juiced-up evolution of the 57260 retaining its dimensions. Interestingly, “Berkley Grand Complication” references the commissioner of the timepiece, W. R. Berkley – the billionaire owner of the W. R. Berkley insurance holding corporation and Chairman of the Board of Trustees of New York University. It was also revealed that Berkley commissioned the Ref. 57260 — making him the owner of the world’s first and second-most complicated watches.
Lightest Mechanical Watch – MING LW.01
Meet MING — Swiss-Malaysian masters of shedding weight off timepieces in truly creative ways. In 2023, their “Special Projects Cave” unveiled two ultra-light wonders: MING LW.01 Manual and LW.01 Automatic. The former weighed in at a featherweight of 8.8 grams, equivalent to a single Cuban coffee bean or a wine cork. Guess what? The LW.01 doesn’t have a dial (not by contemporary standards, at least). Instead of physical indexes, it features printed hashes with five-minute intervals on a dark, gradient glass. For the case construction, MING chose a unique direction — they combined a dial with a hat-shaped movement bearer measuring approximately 0.5 mm thick, which connects with ridges to maintain structure. This is supported by 3D struts for added strength and rigidity. This is crafted out of AZ31 Magnesium- Aluminium-Zinc-Manganese alloy from Smiths High Performance – lighter than carbon (1.77g/cc, vs ~2g/cc density), much more structurally dense as compared to 3D printing, and well, as strong as metal. Also, instead of a sapphire crystal, MING opted to use hardened Corning Gorilla Glass 6 via Knight Optical, which was significantly lighter and more resistant to scratches and lighter. Inside, the ETA 2000.M1 movement modified by Schwarz-Etienne for MING promises a power reserve of 36 hours.
Most Expensive Watch Sold at Auction – Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime – Ref 6300A-010
Back in November of 2019, this Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime had the world in shock and awe after being hammered for CHF 31 million (USD 31.2 million) at Christie’s Only Watch charity auction. Experts estimated to fetch a lowly CHF 3 million, but as the lot flew past that and surpassed the USD 24 million mark (at which Patek Philippe’s 1933 Henry Graves Supercomplication pocket watch was auctioned in 2014), the crowd realized that history was being made. Patek Philippe invested over seven years and 100,000 to create their first grande sonnerie (French for ‘grand strike’), which strikes the hour every 15 minutes. This is paired with a petite sonnerie, which chimes hours and quarters, a minute repeater, acoustic chiming alarms, and various other complications like moonphases and a perpetual calendar. Cased in stainless steel, this melodious marvel boasts 20 complications spread across both sides: ebony and salmon, rotating 180 degrees. In the tradition of the Only Watch auction, the staggering $31.2 million went toward research into a cure for Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.
World’s Most Precise Lunar Phase Wristwatch – IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar.
At Watches & Wonders 24, IWC unveiled a hyper-accurate calendar calibre that builds upon 40 years of perpetual calendar development by the folks in Schaffhausen. With only four secular perpetual calendars in existence by Patek Philippe, Svend Andersen, and Franck Muller, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar is projected to be accurate till 3999 or perhaps longer, adjusting for skipped leap years at the start of each century. However, the biggest achievement comes from its Double Moonphase, which is accurate for the next 45 million years! After this, it will deviate from the moon’s orbit in only one day.
IWC used a supercomputer to simulate 22 trillion different gearing combinations to achieve this record-breaking feat. To tackle the leap year inconsistencies, IWC added only two gears to the gear train, which were grown using hyper-precision Liga technology. This is brought to life by the Calibre 52460, which is based on IWC’s classic automatic calibre with a Pellaton winding system, an 18-carat gold rotor, and a seven-day power reserve. All cased in the same 44.4-millimetre x 15-millimetre-thick platinum case as seen in current retail catalogues.
Smallest Mechanical Movement – Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 101
After Edmond Jaeger and Jacques-David LeCoultre joined forces to form Jaeger-LeCoultre watch company and create the world’s thinnest movement, the calibre 145, in 1907, they went on to undertake a behemoth challenge of making the world’s tiniest mechanical movement, the calibre 101. Its story begins in 1925 with the launch of the emblematic Douplan, drenched in Art Deco elegance. A few years later, JLC created a smaller version of the Douplan measuring 14 millimetres long, 4.8 millimetres wide, and 3.4 millimetres thick. As men were still tied to using pocket watches, miniaturized jewellery was quite a rave for high-society early 20th-century women. The Calibre 101 movement was and still is, the smallest mechanical movement ever made, serving as the heart of hundreds of timepieces in JLC’s legacy.
Most Meteorites on a Dial – Louis Moinet Cosmopolis
Officially recognized by Guinness World Records as the timepiece with the “most meteorite inserts”, the Louis Moinet Cosmopolis is a true celestial theatre, flexing cosmic rocks that culminate two decades of searching.
- The twelve specimens used on the dial originate from various corners of the universe — some older than Earth, having witnessed our solar system’s shaping. Here’s a list of them:
- Centrally located Lunar meteorite
- Dhofar 461- a rare specimen with a speckled interior
- Martian meteorite from Mars
- Dhofar 1674 found near Dhofar
- Oman, with a greenish texture
- Allende meteorite from Mexico – the “Rosetta Stone” of meteorites being the most studied celestial rock in history, estimated to be 4.56 billion years old
- Erg Check meteorite found in Algeria
- Jbilet Winselman meteorite found in Morocco containing amino acid traces (traces of life in the cosmos)
- Isheyevo meteorite from Russia
- Aletai Armanty meteorite was found in China
- Black chondrite (result of impact between two asteroids)
All this cosmic jewellery is cased in a 40.7 millimetre 18-carat rose gold case that’s polished and brushed. Inside, the calibre LM 135 is manually wound with a flying tourbillon, using double barrels to deliver a 96-hour power reserve.
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