Are Luxury Watches Finally Unisex?

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According to an FMI study (Future Market Insights), the male color cosmetics market is predicted to ‘glam-up’ to US$43 billion by 2033. On the flipside, McKinsey reported a 430% surge in U.S women’s sport viewing hours between 2021 and 2024, and an NAR report (National Association of Realtors) suggesting single women 20% of home purchases in 2024 were made by single women. There’s a serious shift here.

Surf through high fashion magazines from the last decade, and you’ll find men rocking pearl necklaces and women flexing chunky sneakers and broad-shouldered suits. Now, the watch industry is catching up to this trend. Women’s watches are quintessentially no longer bedazzling diamond-studded Cartiers or opulent rose gold Serpentis, and men boast a newfound penchant for smaller, functional case sizes and creative expression. As gender fluidity has challenged the status quo of existence, watchmakers now label models as ‘unisex’ or, well, avoid labelling them entirely.

Pinch of Playfulness

As the lines between jewelry, watchmaking, and fashion further dwindle, maisons are getting experimental — chasing artistic, playful, and personal expression over conventional codes. Take W&W25’s Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire, embracing the maison’s artistic spirit and equestrian roots, it boasts horsehair dial marquetry and asymmetrical stirrup-shaped lugs. Brilliantly playful, skillfully artistic, and delicately crafted.

Another spectacular example would be Studio Underd0g’s Watermelon. Potently channeling a fruity dose of summer refreshment via a watermelon-themed satin dégradé dial, it also packs a sporty punch with a Seagull chronograph movement inside. Neither timepiece was designed to serve specific genders, but simply people who celebrate their creative, fun, and artistic spirit.

‘Times’ Change, Icons Don’t

For a style to transcend gender, it first needs to stand the test of time. Take Cartier’s entire catalogue of icons like the Tank, Pasha de Cartier, Ballon Bleu, Crash, and many more. Some have recently marked their centenary; others are close to it. Yet, they haven’t strayed too far from their original design. Sure, we’ve witnessed innumerable artistic, jewel-enriched, and mechanically magnificent alter-egos of each Cartier model, but through the eras, these models weren’t limited to gender. Women chose bolder shapes while men leaned towards diamond accents — simply embracing their individualism and flair.

Traditionally cherished as a feminine icon, the Baignoire is recognized for its delicately curved case, narrow bracelet, and effortless regality. Worn as a statement piece at vibrant cocktail parties and glamorous red carpets.

Pink Is the New Blue

Baby gender reveal parties follow a simple rule: blue for boys, pink for girls. But considering the endless slew of pink-dial men’s watches and blue-dial women’s watches, it’s safe to say that these gendered hues are now obsolete.

In the music video for his new song “Camera”, Ed Sheeran wore a rare, pink-dialed ceramic IWC Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar, matching the colors of his new album cover “PLAY”. On a similar note, this Bvlgari Octo Finissimo with its signature sharp case boasts a soft pink (salmon) dial. Other examples include the Zenith Chronomaster Sport Pink in partnership with breast cancer charity Susan G. Komen, Grand Seiko’s soft pink 62GS inspired by Japan’s cherry blossoms, and ORIS’ ProPilot x Miss Piggy Edition with a diva-esque pink dial.

Functionality > Frills

For modern women, luxury watches are a part of their identity. Sure, they command attention at gala dinners, but they’re also designed to endure day-to-day life cycles. A research report from Chrono24 revealed that 61.7 % of female buyers in 2023 purchased what had been traditionally labelled “men’s” watches, and nearly a third of those were 40 millimeters and above. In terms of the luxury watch industry pivoting, recent trends also suggest that new unisex models typically range between 38-39 millimeters. This “golden mean” size delivers wearability as well as versatility.

Women’s watches are departing from soft, feminine hues and embracing bolder, sportier, and more fierce codes of style. Take this Hublot Classic Fusion King Gold, draped against a regal blue backdrop with a bezel enriched with diamonds. It hits balanced notes of functionality, elegance, and sportiness — emotions embraced by the modern woman. Upping the ante, this Breitling Navitimer with a mint green dial channels its aviation heritage with packs a COSC-certified chronometer.

Gen-Z Breaking Rules, Again

According to a Statista research report, 36% of Gen-Z luxury watch buyers favor fashion-forward and trend-driven watches, followed by 27% for minimalist dress watches, and vintage models from the 1990s at 26%. It’s evident that Gen-Z values autonomy, fluidity, and experimentalism far more than investment value or brand prestige. They’re also substantially less inclined to regard gendered categorizations. This shift in mindset perfectly aligns with the rise of gender-neutral watches, which prioritize self-expression and inclusivity over segmentation and labels. A soft pastel dial, a small 36-millimeter case, or a chunky rubber strap isn’t coded as masculine or feminine anymore — it’s simply a reflection of one’s limitless identity.